Both are called “fast-casual restaurants,” but that’s where the similarity ends.
The Taco Stand and the Laguna Fish Company opened around the same time during the last few weeks. Both have walk-up ordering and sit-down eating. But perhaps it’s no surprise that the Taco Stand is like a sandy, shaggy beach grom compared to the Tommy Bahama shirt-wearing old guy at the Fish Company who prefers to sit at the bar and tell tall surf stories.
Both have their appeal.
In true West Coast style, the Taco Stand serves breakfast burritos – but not until 10 a.m., which sounds about right.
From the outside, you can still see the old Taco Bell shape but inside, it’s unrecognizable. There’s nothing left of Taco Bell. It definitely lives up to its San Diego heritage – beachy, approachable and loose. In a word, it’s off-kilter, like a corporate goofy foot.
The food, too, has a messy, impromptu but appetizing look to it. When you eat it, you have to keep it in its place or else you’ll lose something. But if you do drop a tender piece of carne asada on the floor, no harm no foul. Chances are a random, friendly dog will be ready to suck it up.
By contrast, Laguna Fish Company is more suburban and polished – but still working out the kinks. It inherited a sit-down restaurant design but bolted on a walk-up approach. Customers are a little confused at first, but if you get past the logistics, the food is excellent.
We had the taco plate (with mahi-mahi and swordfish), and the Thai curry with the fish of the day, branzino. Both were very good.
And a bonus for both places: The bills are not shocking – perhaps the biggest benefit of the fast-casual approach.
