In almost every business, experience matters. Two new restaurants in Laguna Beach demonstrate the point.
Finney’s Crafthouse, a popular fast-casual restaurant with a dozen locations in Southern California, opened on Monday without breaking a sweat. The operations seemed flawless; the staff poised and friendly; the food generous and solid.
By contrast, Red dragon, a high-end Chinese restaurant that is still undergoing a soft opening, has a long way to go. We were only one of two couples during a recent visit, and the operations were sluggish. The staff was polite but hit-and-miss with its service. The food, with a $120 prix fixe menu, was also jarringly unpredictable. One dish would be inventive and tasty while the next, common and bland.
To be fair, Red dragon has had a tough time of it. Opening the massive location at 680 S. Coast Hwy., has taken several years. The logistics alone (read parking) will continue to be an issue, despite a valet agreement.
But the food, now, is the thing they need to work on. They promise to have a more traditional menu by the time of their grand opening on May 28. And perhaps the prices will be more reasonable for – let’s face it – Chinese food.
When the best thing on the menu is not the braised lobster with crispy rice or the grilled angus beef rib but the lowly stone pot fried rice, perhaps there is some recalibrating to do. The rice was absolutely delicious and the only thing we took away in a doggie bag because it was worth it.
The restaurant is only open to limited reservations on the first floor. The staff was nice enough to give us a quick tour of the upper levels, including the new rooftop. And that’s where everything will happen this summer.
There is a huge outdoor bar, comfortable seating and a decent view of Catalina Island. We will go back just for the rooftop, some appetizers and maybe split the shrimp stuffed morel mushrooms with asparagus, which was quite nice.
Meanwhile, Finney’s is already a well-oiled machine – and packed. We went Monday, the first night it opened to the public, and it’s already boasting a comfortable, lived-in vibe with locals leading the way. I recognized several friends and residents. Everyone was smiling, chatting and relaxed. The craft beer was flowing, the food was good – especially since nothing tops $16.
We got out of there for about $75 – appetizer, drinks and dinner for two.
It’s kind of like a Nick’s lite, only more fun. Are the deviled eggs as good as Nick’s? Well, no, but I’m also not dropping $50 for a petite filet.
Restaurant comparisons are not always fair, but they can be useful. Clearly, Finney’s is not Red dragon or Nick’s, and that’s OK.
There is always room for more diversity in Laguna. Thankfully, Finney’s brings a new price point and if Monday was any indication, people are loving it.
